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Dusty,
Nice work.
I re-posted your pictures of the nozzle and design. I think of this design to be pretty good. It looks like a great idea.
Wondering if you have some data or observation on how well the converging-diverging nozzle design works? Any idea what your Reynolds number is at your conditions? More over, wondering if you maintain laminar flow. Then, with laminar flow, the 2nd and
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hi Dusty,
A savoy review...thank you.
I sometimes present this concept here and there to get input on the idea. I'm still developing and researching to see how it can be realized. Some testing on a prototype will say a lot for its performance. I do plan to do this after I get my 10 HP Stanley built. I'll be incorporating some of my ideas on this build with an Ofeldt boiler, infrared burne
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Dusty,
You seam pretty technically savvy. This is another method of using the working fluid as the fuel, water. The water would be broken down to hydrogen and oxygen via electrolysis.
The attached pics are what I reviewed with a doctor in chemistry to see if feasible. My father who was a medical doctor with strong chemistry background recommended this process.
What do you think ...?
Som
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Keith,
Nice offer...please post some pictures.
Rick
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Dusty,
Wondering the reason that there isn't a Freon steam car? Think about the condensing design as compared with a non-condensing version.
Sometimes (most times) to get efficiency, the cost is high.
However, according to the article, there was a naphtha steam launch by my hero Ofeldt.
The secret is to use the same working fluid as the heat source (burning).
Rick
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Yeah...my bad. Ken, it would be an epic drive! Are you up for being the copilot?
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Bill,
A good idea to utilize the steam engine exhaust. Better to use the exhaust to draw the burner flame quickly through the steam generator system along with directing it towards the rear for jet propulsion assist. Some concepts from one of my presentations attached.
Hope this sparks some ideas.
Kind regards,
Rick
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Note to all..I submitted an article to Margie about Jim's Lykamobile steam car. Please look for it in future bulletin's. Hope club members enjoy it.
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hi Dusty,
I'm using a ball valve arrangement on my 10 HP Stanley build. Tony Grzyb used this arrangement for years on his Delora steam buggy. Secrete is to come out of the boiler with 3/8" pipe and expand to 1/2" pipe. Put a union inline before the ball valve and this reduces the temp to within limits that this yellow handled valve can handle. Also, Ron Rogers has a similar arrangement
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Basil...beautiful car. Wish I could buy it. Just curious, how fast will it go?
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hi Chris,
Do you live in New England some where...I'm guessing? I'm planning a trip to see John Bowditch in NH. Okay to perhaps stop by? You can private message me for details.
Rick Heinig
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Thank you Scott for posting this thread. I was working with Billy Barnes on his valve timing and cut-off for his 20 HP motorcycle. This makes me want to follow up and see when he's running. I'll keep you posted.
The engine is one of my favorites...the one used on the Gentleman's Speedy Roadster. 3-5/8 X 5 bore and stroke (inches). It has a narrow frame like my 10 HP Stanley and dates back to ~
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hi Jim,
Ken answered your first 2 questions. I'm going to give you guidance on what level to indicate your boiler.
If you look at the picture of Joe's Red Stanley attached earlier in this thread, this gives a pretty good idea of where to locate (what height) the standpipe. What it needs to be. The Stanley boiler pictured is a multi-firetube boiler like yours. Figure a couple of inches down f
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Fixed the orientation of the picture.
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Picture on Joe's Stanley. The vertical column with the spark plug is the feature.
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Yes, very observant. However, if you look closely at the end of the bent rod, it is broken off. It is stuck in the piston 1/2 to the far left.
I made a jig for my lathe, 4 jaw chuck and will drill out the bent rod and drill/tap for a new one. I'll touch it with weld to hold in place.
Back to my question...what's the reason for the short side of the valve?
"When in cutoff or hookup
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
I'm hoping Rolly sees this post. However, all can see it and respond if one knows the answer.
A little background first. I was with Herb de la Porte a couple of weekends ago and who just overhauled his 20 HP Stanley engine. Note that I'm in the process of starting my 10 HP build along with interface to the rear end. Both Herb and my engine have valves that have one side slightly shorter than
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hi Jim,
Just a few more comments about your questions. I recently went on a Steam Car tour with 3 Stanley cars. I rode in each one. There is one thing that stands out about these car owners. Make your car reliable and durable to last a long time.
Maybe that's 2 things. As far as reliability goes, your car already has some proven designs with an oil burner and more updated engine design. I
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Thanks Bill,
Love to give you a ride when complete.
Love to see your Ofeldt Design. Don't hesitate to post on another thread.
I just retired and started Substitute Teaching at the High School Sure enough, they captured me into a long term sub position. One of the three classes is Design Development for Production (DDP). Way too much fun teaching this class.
Kind regards, Rick
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Bill,
Sorry for the confusion. My 10 HP Stanley Engine is for my personal steam car. My steam car is based on a model T chassis. Same tread width as the model T is my constraint. However, I reduced the frame wheel base end-to-end. It is 84" down from 100". This size matches the Stanley EX like what Rolly built. My intention is to make the car look like a Gentlemen's Speedy Roadster, H
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
My 10 HP is considered a Dry Engine. On the cross heads are a single ball bearing top and bottom. This allows for intermittent lubrication. On 20 HP, there is a slide, metal on metal typically brass. It needs constant lubrication to be effective.
My 10 HP when I bought it. Note the 4 rods that stick up. They are 4" on center and interface with the differential. I just need to go to 5-1
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Rolly
This fits into this thread where I'm trying to convert my 10 HP to a model T axle. First picture is the concept. I have a question for you regarding the spacing of the frame rods and expanding side-to-side about 3/4" a side. The original Stanley frame rods are 5/8" threaded rods at the crank and out.
Other pictures are my ideas.
My concept is to screw on a spacer block. I ne
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Rolly,
What is the distance between the rods; side-to-side and top-to-bottom?
Where can one get one of the piston valve blocks?
Thanks,
Rick
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Rolly,
Curious...what's the bore and stroke of your Reliable Engine? Could it handle a 1,000 PSI?
Rick
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hey Rolly,
I think you have some experience with or know someone who has a Reliable Steam Engine in a boat? Which model does he have?
Thanks Ken for all information about the Diesel conversion. The key element I was looking for is the 3-7/8 X 4-1/2 bore and stroke. This is opposed to the Doble 6 X 5. However, the Doble Detroit Engine has 4 acting strokes within the 2-cylinder engine. It would
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hi Ken,
Let us put self starting, clutches and even transmission aside for this discussion. Let us focus on the valve events that produce the steam rate or the effective use of steam. In other words, to make the best use of the steam from the boiler/generator.
As per Stumpf, the objective is to use compression to match the steam chest pressure. I would totally agree that Abner Doble did read
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hey Ken,
If OK I would like to further explore this Diesel conversion and understand some of its attributes to allow it to rotate at a higher rpm and still consume equivalent steam of a Besler compound. I'm sure you don't mind and it will get a little technical.
With piston valve engines, there is lead and lap. Lead breaks down to an advancement of the eccentric angle to allow the lap to work.
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hi Ken,
We haven't discussed the 3 cylinder Diesel engine conversion that has been toyed around with for awhile now. This is the engine that might be considered for an LSR attempt and know that you have done some considerable valve/head design. I believe this is a GM design also.
For the same reasons you state above, wouldn't this be problematic?
This Diesel conversion would be single acti
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
How about given that Besler made the half a V8 into a compound, isn't the 90 degree crank angle a good thing? It was a receiver type compound.
I think the engine is a good conversion. It was condemned due to the specification constraints. It was as though they wanted a steam engine to be like a internal combustion engine. What if they were to open up the requirements to make the steam engin
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
Hi Ken,
What's your thoughts on this conversion?
1969 SE-124 Chevelle Converted to Steam by Besler. One of the few profitable ventures into steam powered automobiles.
Tom Kimmel - Chevelle Conversion
Kind regards,
Rick
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Rick.H
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SteamStuff
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