cyclone engine
Posted by Harry Schoell
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Re: cyclone engine May 22, 2005 08:59PM |
showing a view of the heat exchanger coils with the combustion chamber removed.It is edge fired with the flame front spining on the out side causing an artifical gravity where the heavy unburned gases and particals stay to the out side walls. It is multi tube wich gives it low back preasure with high surface area giving a very high efficency boiler. Of course the parts have been run and tested several mounths ago.
Have a good day
Harry
Have a good day
Harry
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Re: cyclone engine June 03, 2005 03:18PM |
Cyclone update,
Drawings of the markII 2 cylinder as the photos were on an earler post. This engine was first run in Nov o4. this may make the system a little more clear.I,ll try to answer as many questions as I can. The 6 cyl will be shown as soon as possible.
Have a good day
Harry
Drawings of the markII 2 cylinder as the photos were on an earler post. This engine was first run in Nov o4. this may make the system a little more clear.I,ll try to answer as many questions as I can. The 6 cyl will be shown as soon as possible.
Have a good day
Harry
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Re: cyclone engine June 14, 2005 03:30PM |
Cyclone update,
This is the spider bearing, pistons,and con rods for the 6cyl engine. This configuration is a true radial except the spider bearing omitted the master rod which caused a timing error. This method also did anouther nice thing. The stroke is 2", however the lever arm is increased. The spider bearing always maintains a X-Y axis. Andy, you might like to plot this as it is very interesting in the oval that it projects.
Have a good day Harry
This is the spider bearing, pistons,and con rods for the 6cyl engine. This configuration is a true radial except the spider bearing omitted the master rod which caused a timing error. This method also did anouther nice thing. The stroke is 2", however the lever arm is increased. The spider bearing always maintains a X-Y axis. Andy, you might like to plot this as it is very interesting in the oval that it projects.
Have a good day Harry
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Re: cyclone engine June 14, 2005 03:41PM |
Pistons in block
Harry
Harry
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Re: cyclone engine June 21, 2005 05:43PM |
This is a typical sports car instalation with a cyclone engine 100hp
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Re: cyclone engine June 24, 2005 03:45AM |
Hi Harry,
Yes, your pistons and rings are way "out of the block". I haven't been able to figure out the rings from the photos. After trying to source small rings for my piston valves, I have some homebuilt gapless/segmented weirdies in the pipeline. Expensive junkpile indeed; all par for the course. I need to take up boating; even with the few parts I've built so far, I've piled up plenty of anchor material.
Definitely build the car. The more steamers, the merrier. As you said, your engine doesn't have the allure of the old steamers (sigh), but on the plus side I think it would appeal to fans of exotic IC sports cars who might find a "neoclassic" steamer way too strange. You may be surprised at the level of interest out there in _buying_ a steam car.
Another thought, a rubber-burning near-LSR car is a must, but how about also building one with superlow air drag and engine min bsfc load/rpm carefully matched to the car's load/rpm at highway cruise (~65 mph). Then get it independently tested, and give our "steamers use 10x the fuel" buddies (like that guy you ran into) something to chew on. I bet city fuel mileage will instantly become their "only important issue" in IC/steam comparisons!
Thanks for the invite. My plate is pretty full for the next month or two, but I do plan to get out there and take a look this summer. You invented, designed, built, and are running your own idea, that's well worth seeing, and way to go!
Bill: Leon Serpollet, Ancient Master of the IC-copying steamer, who later wised up & went DA, said he had no problem with oil at up to 1000°F steam temp, and that was before 1905. Look at the average operating temperature of cylinder walls, pistons, etc, internal steamed surfaces, not steam temp. In a 700°F Stanley engine, that's around 500°F, and with really high expansion the temp drop from inlet to exhaust (and inlet to avg surface temp) is even more extreme. No, I don't have the formula, ask Herr Doktor Stumpf.
Ironically, one of the challenges with high-temperature (hi expansion) steam engines (exc Harry's! -- fascinating) is that they run too cold, hence surface losses, esp in smaller/slower/lower-load engines (which most books aren't about, ultra-important and virtually always overlooked). Bad for water rate, good for oil survival. Try point lube instead of oil injection to steam. EG, a wee oil port in the cylinder wall squooges some oil every time the piston passes over it (and only then). Band cylinder around oil port/fitting (watch hoop strength, as Ben notes, esp when building light). Or drill oil passages in piston rods & pistons/conrods (ports behind rings, trickier build), no need to time. Properly metered, oil consumption and oil contamination [aka anti-scale/corrosion protective coating
] go waaay down.
Carbonized oil trouble with hitemp steam comes from oil coat too thick for the metal surface to cool it in time -- ie, too much oil. Same deal as IC pistons -- note scraper/oil control rings. Flood those cylinder walls, and blue smoke. Except IC is external air or water cooled instead of internal steam cooled. Too much of anything in engines/powerplants is a problem. A good design is a balancing act.
Peter
Yes, your pistons and rings are way "out of the block". I haven't been able to figure out the rings from the photos. After trying to source small rings for my piston valves, I have some homebuilt gapless/segmented weirdies in the pipeline. Expensive junkpile indeed; all par for the course. I need to take up boating; even with the few parts I've built so far, I've piled up plenty of anchor material.
Definitely build the car. The more steamers, the merrier. As you said, your engine doesn't have the allure of the old steamers (sigh), but on the plus side I think it would appeal to fans of exotic IC sports cars who might find a "neoclassic" steamer way too strange. You may be surprised at the level of interest out there in _buying_ a steam car.
Another thought, a rubber-burning near-LSR car is a must, but how about also building one with superlow air drag and engine min bsfc load/rpm carefully matched to the car's load/rpm at highway cruise (~65 mph). Then get it independently tested, and give our "steamers use 10x the fuel" buddies (like that guy you ran into) something to chew on. I bet city fuel mileage will instantly become their "only important issue" in IC/steam comparisons!
Thanks for the invite. My plate is pretty full for the next month or two, but I do plan to get out there and take a look this summer. You invented, designed, built, and are running your own idea, that's well worth seeing, and way to go!
Bill: Leon Serpollet, Ancient Master of the IC-copying steamer, who later wised up & went DA, said he had no problem with oil at up to 1000°F steam temp, and that was before 1905. Look at the average operating temperature of cylinder walls, pistons, etc, internal steamed surfaces, not steam temp. In a 700°F Stanley engine, that's around 500°F, and with really high expansion the temp drop from inlet to exhaust (and inlet to avg surface temp) is even more extreme. No, I don't have the formula, ask Herr Doktor Stumpf.
Ironically, one of the challenges with high-temperature (hi expansion) steam engines (exc Harry's! -- fascinating) is that they run too cold, hence surface losses, esp in smaller/slower/lower-load engines (which most books aren't about, ultra-important and virtually always overlooked). Bad for water rate, good for oil survival. Try point lube instead of oil injection to steam. EG, a wee oil port in the cylinder wall squooges some oil every time the piston passes over it (and only then). Band cylinder around oil port/fitting (watch hoop strength, as Ben notes, esp when building light). Or drill oil passages in piston rods & pistons/conrods (ports behind rings, trickier build), no need to time. Properly metered, oil consumption and oil contamination [aka anti-scale/corrosion protective coating
] go waaay down.
Carbonized oil trouble with hitemp steam comes from oil coat too thick for the metal surface to cool it in time -- ie, too much oil. Same deal as IC pistons -- note scraper/oil control rings. Flood those cylinder walls, and blue smoke. Except IC is external air or water cooled instead of internal steam cooled. Too much of anything in engines/powerplants is a problem. A good design is a balancing act.
Peter
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