steam cylinder oil

been looking at cylinder oil, what would be the best choice for cylinder oil. superheated steam around 400 to 500 degs. at 250 psi ?
iso 460 or 680. looking at this web site [avepetroleum.com] not sure which one.

I have both 460 and 680 steam cylinder oil. Generally the 680 is better for higher temps.

how well does it work in a displacement lubricator

Use an ISO 460 oil
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil # 634

Rolly

I have to wonder whether you should look at specialty oil for steam locomotives, which are optimized for the conditions you mention. Here is a discussion about some of the 'desiderata' for steam cylinder oil, by Bill Petitjean who manufactured the 'Green Velvet' line of products.

[www.southernsteamtrains.com]

General consensus is that 680 is what you would want, but be sure the formulation is 'steam-appropriate'

Bill shut down production of his products a couple of years ago, but some are contract manufactured for Chris Brennan's company (Brennan Oil) in Durango, Colorado. They are apparently in the specialty-oil business for drillers, and so were set up to sell products outside the normal range of the service stations they also operate. They are supposed to be the preferred 'source' going forward. I have a request for current information 'in' to them, but you can reach them by mail at

PO box 1068, Durango CO 81302

or by phone at

(970) 247-3054

X



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2020 05:44AM by IronChief.

I have just confirmed (Jan 2 at 2:30pm) that Brennan can and will provide the range of Green Velvet cylinder oil.

Specific contact names for inquiries (to 970-247-3054) are Colton and Michelle.

They currently have no plans to resume production of the greases. Perhaps if this group can coordinate sufficient demand with some of the railway preservation groups, we might convince them either to resume limited production or provide the detailed formulation for them.

Rolly
I need some advice from you. With my oil burner in my car, Its a 12 volt wayne burner. The problem i am having is it smokes too much. I tried adjusting the air baffle but doesn't seem to make a big difference . The nozzle is a 2 gph 80 degs and the pressure is 140 psi. The fire box is 12" wide 12" deep and 6 " high do you have any recommendations to correct this problem. Thanks jim t

Jim there is a formula for combustion size for burning atomized oil. I can’t remember it and am not quite sure where I have it at home. Go to a good oil burner supply house and they can help you. It may just be the type of nozzle and spray pattern your using.
Rolly

Rolly, this what i found about the oil burner, the nozzle specs are measured at 100 psi and said that a 2.0 gph nozzle running at pump pressure of 140 psi will deliver 2.5 gph of oil. My fire box is a bit smaller then is required but i cant change that. What i did was to reduce the pump pressure to 100 psi which brings the nozzle into spec which seems to have reduce the smoke to very little, time will tell now. Thanks jim t

Jim the other thing that can affect the smoke is how tight the gas pass space it up through the boiler/generator.
When I built ma Derr boiler I calculated the gas pass space as laminator flow but built it as turbulent flow, same gas pass space but harder and longer passage space. I calculated it for six gal per hour
Smoked terrible and caused combustion chamber explosions. I built a two stage burner and started it on two gal per Hour nozzle, when the pressure reached 100 psi and the boiler was hot I switched over to the second nozzle adding the other four gal for a six gal burn. That worked.
1000 psi was not good for the car and I had to drop back to 600 psi and four gal per hour.
Rolly

Jim I through of something, most pumps will go to 300 psi. smaller nozzle higher pressure.
Also check with the oil burner guy you talked to about the best spray pattern for your combustion chamber. Short and wide, long and narrow or whatever.
Rolly

Rolly,
I called wayne burner company and spoke to tech service and gave them the chamber size. He said I should use a solid cone nozzle 90 deg 2.0 or 1.75 gph and adjust the pump pressure from 100 to 120 psi and watch for smoke when it starts to smoke reduce the pressure until it stops. Also the front of the burner gun should not be in the combustion chamber but back about 1/2". Going to try these changes and will update on the findings.

An oil burner takes liquid fuel oil and put it through a fine nozzle and brakes it up into small droplets. The higher the pressure the more droplets and smaller in size and the cleaner burn.

I would start at 200 psi if your pump will go that high some pumps are rated 175 psi and most go to 300 psi. if your pump is rated 300 psi I would go to 250 psi with a smaller nozzle that would give you the 2 gal per hr. then drop back to 1.75 gal per hr if it still smokes. Most home oil burner combustion chambers have ceramic liners that stay red hot between on and off cycles. Do you know if your combustion chamber has a ceramic liner?
Rolly

No the chamber is not just insulation.

High efficiency steam piston engine requires high pressure superheated steam. This causes serious problem with cylinder oil selection. In internal combustion engine oil burns out, but in steam expander it turns into a hard carbonized deposits.
In steam engine with steam pressure 1000psi and steam temperature 1040F the cylinder rings are heated to over 600F.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2020 07:44PM by novice.

All files from this thread

File Name	File Size		Posted by	Date
Steam engine temperature.png	105.8 KB	open | download	novice	10/04/2020	Read message