Steam powered go kart update

Hey everyone. It’s been a while since I posted an update on the go kart I’ve been working on...so here is the latest: I reconfigured the boiler to a top fired Doble F type, installed the early 1900s era steam engine, replaced the rear-end with a lawn tractor transaxle...including it’s big knobby tires...and fabricated a homemade Stanley water automatic to control the feed water and trigger recirculation. The boiler used the same tubing and drum as the previous “double drum” design...but as a more straightforward monotube with a single drum at the end of the circuit. The boiler leaked too much and didn’t perform a whole lot better than before, so I am in the process of building a center drum Ofeldt to replace it. It will have a 3” (nominal) drum of mild steel and the coils are 3/8” stainless steel tubing. It will use my burner, on the tangent...like how Rick H suggested. I might incorporate Ron’s idea of using multiple burners as well. Although I love experimenting and trying new ideas...it’s time I have something that can generate a reliable flow of steam. The rest of the go kart project is ready to go, and I even took a few short rides with it with the old system. I can’t wait to install a tried and true Ofeldt on this thing and be able to travel further then the end of my driveway! The old steam engine and lawn tractor transaxle are a great match....it’s a six speed with neutral and reverse. Here are some recent pictures of the kart:

Jamison

Jamison...that's awesome! I just have a plastic bucket with the tool caddy around it and my tool box available to work. I'd like to come down and help you turn a wrench? Don't know if I can get away from the job, we'll see. Anyway, got to be warmer there in GA than Upstate NY

Can't wait to see this at the Spring Meet!

Rick,

Thanks, buddy. Your welcome to visit anytime. Right now I’m working on fabricating a coil winder for the Ofeldt. Once this is built, winding the coils for this and future projects should be quick and easy. I will post pictures of the rig once it’s completed...hopefully by this evening.

Jamison

Here are some pictures of the winder and a coil I made with it today:

Made two more yesterday....a lefty and another righty. Only 9 more coils to go!

Like I said....quick and easy with the winder . The tubing is cut to length (8’) then filled with sand before they are wound.

Good start my Friend!

Another thought, once you have all these coils, make sure your fastening method to the drum or manifold is bullet proof. I think we talked about this. However, just to be sure, perform the coupling connection to the drum/manifold. Then the tube to the coupling and then the connection of the tube-sheets or end-caps.

Take your time and don't rush the assembly. It is a real pain to have to fill the tube with sand and coil more tubes. Chances are you will scrap the tube after a failed weld or assembly. Also note that the high temp JB (600 Deg F) Weld will work on the inside (water side) connection of the coupling to the drum/manifold.

Please keep us posted?

X



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2020 06:11AM by IronChief.

Steel melts at 2500 degrees F.

X



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/30/2020 06:10AM by IronChief.

Ron and Peter,

OK....I get it. Don't melt the boiler components

My boiler has stainless steel coils so it will be able to handle some overheating if the water gets too low. The Stanley type water automatic I built should keep the level in the drum consistent. It will also have a sight glass attached to keep an eye on things. I thought about installing that high pressure float switch I have to turn on a LED warning light and/or buzzer if the level dips to low....or get fancy and have it activate a solenoid bypass valve to control feed water...but I'm trying to keep everything mechanical on this thing. Here is a picture of the water automatic installed on my old boiler:

Jamison



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2019 10:03PM by Arch-Tone.

Excellent, Jamison! That should make boiler burnouts much less likely than with manual feed water control. I like the way you built the Feed Water Automatic; looks solid and simple. I will be starting a new thread on those things in a minute.

Another possibility to practically eliminate any chance of a scorched boiler is to build another expansion tube, located closer to the bottom of the drum or tube array, but set it up to operate a fuel-shutoff valve like in Stanleys. IE, a Low Water Automatic Shutoff.

Peter

Peter,

The “valve” end of the automatic I built is an all stainless steel safety valve that uses a 7/8” SS ball. The spring is removed and replaced with a 1/4” stainless rod that holds the ball over its seat. A graphite / inconel wire packing on the rod keeps it water tight, and the coupling nut at the end of the rod allows for tweaking the clearance. The expansion tube is a schedule 80 red brass (gunmetal) 3/8” pipe. Eventually I will replace the hose clamps with better mounts, but it works great as it is. I like the idea of an additional expansion tube controller for fuel shutoff if the water is about to run out.

Jamison

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