Steam Powered Mini Bike
Posted by Arch-Tone
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 03, 2018 09:59AM |
Well, let's get a clutch and a chain mounted up and get er' in the wind 
Seems to run pretty well.
-Ron
Seems to run pretty well.
-Ron
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 03, 2018 12:03PM |
Ron,
Sounds like a plan
. I still need to make another hand or foot operated pump to get the pressure up when starting....mount portable propane tank(s), insulate the furnace from the seat area and install a thermally isolated seat. It seems like a lot of work, but it shouldn’t take too long and could have it ready by the weekend for a test run .
Jamison
Sounds like a plan
. I still need to make another hand or foot operated pump to get the pressure up when starting....mount portable propane tank(s), insulate the furnace from the seat area and install a thermally isolated seat. It seems like a lot of work, but it shouldn’t take too long and could have it ready by the weekend for a test run .
Jamison
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 04, 2018 02:17AM |
Jamison,
The spring pump I talked about and which was really made has lever for unloading plunger off the side thrust from the eccentric and along with this this lever can serve for manual operating the pump. Just information for consideration. May be it helps.
Serge
The spring pump I talked about and which was really made has lever for unloading plunger off the side thrust from the eccentric and along with this this lever can serve for manual operating the pump. Just information for consideration. May be it helps.
Serge
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 04, 2018 11:39AM |
Serge, Ron,
I could have a hand crank driving a separate eccentric with a geared up ratio. It would mimic what the engine does with the pump and has the extra plus of being able to manually adjust the stroke when the engine is driving the pump. The manually operated eccentric can be set to hold down the rocker arm at different lengths....thus shortening the stroke of the pump when engine driven. In other words...if you want the pump to use a full stroke, you would have to leave the manually operated eccentric out of the way, with the fat part facing up. The same goes the other way around....the engine eccentric would have to be out of the way for the manually operated eccentric to work.
Update on the mini bike progress...ran it with a full propane tank yesterday and she was able to sustain a steady flow of steam, like before, but with higher pressure and engine speed. Built a manually operated feed pump to build up pressure at start up. Had a few problems with the flow controller bypass being stuck open, but it reset itself after pressure was built up. I had to install a small needle valve inline with the bypass output to close it off until it started working again. I think I will leave the valve there...it seemed to factor in with the flow control logic and added another level of tweakability. The burner mounts started warping and now it is off center. Will have to remount it with heavier gauge stainless for stability. Made a video of the new test, but it is pretty much the same as the other video...just with the engine working at higher RPMs.
I added a hand cranked eccentric to your drawing, Serge...to help illustrate what I’m talking about:
Jamison
I could have a hand crank driving a separate eccentric with a geared up ratio. It would mimic what the engine does with the pump and has the extra plus of being able to manually adjust the stroke when the engine is driving the pump. The manually operated eccentric can be set to hold down the rocker arm at different lengths....thus shortening the stroke of the pump when engine driven. In other words...if you want the pump to use a full stroke, you would have to leave the manually operated eccentric out of the way, with the fat part facing up. The same goes the other way around....the engine eccentric would have to be out of the way for the manually operated eccentric to work.
Update on the mini bike progress...ran it with a full propane tank yesterday and she was able to sustain a steady flow of steam, like before, but with higher pressure and engine speed. Built a manually operated feed pump to build up pressure at start up. Had a few problems with the flow controller bypass being stuck open, but it reset itself after pressure was built up. I had to install a small needle valve inline with the bypass output to close it off until it started working again. I think I will leave the valve there...it seemed to factor in with the flow control logic and added another level of tweakability. The burner mounts started warping and now it is off center. Will have to remount it with heavier gauge stainless for stability. Made a video of the new test, but it is pretty much the same as the other video...just with the engine working at higher RPMs.
I added a hand cranked eccentric to your drawing, Serge...to help illustrate what I’m talking about:
Jamison
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 04, 2018 11:56AM |
Hi Serge,
Actually, the idea would work provided the lever-pump rod were disassociated with the cam. In essence, increase the travel to provide more volume. There would need to be some innovation on the mechanics. However, still a good idea!
In review of Jamison's pump set up, he would have a lot of pump changes to accomplish the concept. Although, Jamison is a crafty bugger!
He came up with that wonderful pump lever concept off his cam.
There is another event worth mentioning in these small bikes. The boiler or pressure vessels refill quickly after you have been running full burner. The cooling boiler/vessel thermo syphon's back into it's self quite rapidly, within a couple of minutes. He may not have to have an external or supplementary pump at all. Note that I don't have an external/supplementary pump on my Scooter.
I'm starting Scooter updates this week with the Spring temperatures rising to a reasonable level. Jamison and I still have a challenge to run at the Spring Meet at Berrien Springs, May 19-20. I invite all to watch and see? I think Tony is running his Bike also. I challenge all steam bike/scooter builders to attend. By the way, only encouragement is aloud.
Kind regards,
Rick H.
Actually, the idea would work provided the lever-pump rod were disassociated with the cam. In essence, increase the travel to provide more volume. There would need to be some innovation on the mechanics. However, still a good idea!
In review of Jamison's pump set up, he would have a lot of pump changes to accomplish the concept. Although, Jamison is a crafty bugger!
He came up with that wonderful pump lever concept off his cam.
There is another event worth mentioning in these small bikes. The boiler or pressure vessels refill quickly after you have been running full burner. The cooling boiler/vessel thermo syphon's back into it's self quite rapidly, within a couple of minutes. He may not have to have an external or supplementary pump at all. Note that I don't have an external/supplementary pump on my Scooter.
I'm starting Scooter updates this week with the Spring temperatures rising to a reasonable level. Jamison and I still have a challenge to run at the Spring Meet at Berrien Springs, May 19-20. I invite all to watch and see? I think Tony is running his Bike also. I challenge all steam bike/scooter builders to attend. By the way, only encouragement is aloud.
Kind regards,
Rick H.
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 07, 2018 02:49AM |
Hi Jamison,
Well, my adjustable valve stops might be the mother of all screw-ups for all I know at this point. We'll see when/if/how it actually works. I suspect that I am far from alone here in being influenced by steam Jedi Master Tony G's "ya don't know till ya build and test it" philosophy. I had some very interesting discussions with him at the 2005 Berrien Springs meet. In this case I also add a bit of Pat/Rolly and other philosophy regarding pump check valve adjustments & experiments. It seems the "successful steam guy" thing to do. Then there's the "design strictly to theory" approach. Commenting on any approach seems to risk "being discouraging", and basically I just want to build something that works well, without discouraging anyone with a different approach, so "what do you do. What do you do". Well, Jim Crank and some others suggested just shutting the eff up, which I have to admit has advantages. Anyway, your sealant/thread-lock approach seems to do the job, and that's good. My current plan is to put a plastic ball onto a bit of shaft stock, chuck it in the drill press with some grinding compound, and use that to round-off the edge between conical valve seat face and valve seat bore, so's the valve ball don't get chewed by a sharp edge. 303 SS valve seat, Delrin valve ball, and this approach, may give good results. Won't know till I try it, of course. The design is modular, so many materials etc can be tried. Worst case looks like change balls every few thousand miles, perhaps -- like swapping out ignition points etc in an old gas car engine. I bought a 50-pack of the balls from McMaster, and in this quantity they're "cheap as old chips", in British parlance. Cheaper & easier to swap out than ignition points, condenser, etc in Old VW engines, which are already dirt cheap/easy-swap at about the same interval. Making every single darn thing in the car last 1,000,000 miles can be done later, if ever.
Anyway, I'm personally shooting for the Old Classic Steam Car ideal of smooth, silent, simple, infinitely-easily-variable torque/speed steam power, but that doesn't stop me from admiring new/different/untried approaches to converting IC engines to steam -- or "building steam engines like IC engines". In fact I find those really cool and fascinating, when it's build/test and not just theory. I used to be "Mister Bad Vibes" on the theoretical arguments for such engines, but that was because of the many failed experiments of the past, and the lack of successful new build/test projects. In your project, and some other new projects, I see a different approach, and surprising promise. The "R.L. Stine Twist" is the similarity to RJ Smith's often-dismissed ideas on steam engine lubrication/protection.
Peter
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2018 02:55AM by Peter Brow.
Well, my adjustable valve stops might be the mother of all screw-ups for all I know at this point. We'll see when/if/how it actually works. I suspect that I am far from alone here in being influenced by steam Jedi Master Tony G's "ya don't know till ya build and test it" philosophy. I had some very interesting discussions with him at the 2005 Berrien Springs meet. In this case I also add a bit of Pat/Rolly and other philosophy regarding pump check valve adjustments & experiments. It seems the "successful steam guy" thing to do. Then there's the "design strictly to theory" approach. Commenting on any approach seems to risk "being discouraging", and basically I just want to build something that works well, without discouraging anyone with a different approach, so "what do you do. What do you do". Well, Jim Crank and some others suggested just shutting the eff up, which I have to admit has advantages. Anyway, your sealant/thread-lock approach seems to do the job, and that's good. My current plan is to put a plastic ball onto a bit of shaft stock, chuck it in the drill press with some grinding compound, and use that to round-off the edge between conical valve seat face and valve seat bore, so's the valve ball don't get chewed by a sharp edge. 303 SS valve seat, Delrin valve ball, and this approach, may give good results. Won't know till I try it, of course. The design is modular, so many materials etc can be tried. Worst case looks like change balls every few thousand miles, perhaps -- like swapping out ignition points etc in an old gas car engine. I bought a 50-pack of the balls from McMaster, and in this quantity they're "cheap as old chips", in British parlance. Cheaper & easier to swap out than ignition points, condenser, etc in Old VW engines, which are already dirt cheap/easy-swap at about the same interval. Making every single darn thing in the car last 1,000,000 miles can be done later, if ever.
Anyway, I'm personally shooting for the Old Classic Steam Car ideal of smooth, silent, simple, infinitely-easily-variable torque/speed steam power, but that doesn't stop me from admiring new/different/untried approaches to converting IC engines to steam -- or "building steam engines like IC engines". In fact I find those really cool and fascinating, when it's build/test and not just theory. I used to be "Mister Bad Vibes" on the theoretical arguments for such engines, but that was because of the many failed experiments of the past, and the lack of successful new build/test projects. In your project, and some other new projects, I see a different approach, and surprising promise. The "R.L. Stine Twist" is the similarity to RJ Smith's often-dismissed ideas on steam engine lubrication/protection.
Peter
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2018 02:55AM by Peter Brow.
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 08, 2018 09:30PM |
Peter,
“steam Jedi Master Tony G”....too funny. Ok....so I had a little photoshop fun with that...
May the forced circulation be with you....
“steam Jedi Master Tony G”....too funny. Ok....so I had a little photoshop fun with that...
May the forced circulation be with you....
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 09, 2018 02:25AM |
Peter,
“Right. That post was too silly” is what the colonel would say. Ok....back on topic...
Well....I decided that the system is solid enough to start making stuff more road worthy. I have pulled the boiler assembly and remounted the burner with heavier gauge brackets. Working on a new 3 bottle propane manifold that will be mounted securely on the front of the frame. Drums will be insulated with cotton twine soaked in high temp paint...thanks to Ron for the idea...and covered with a shell of thin walled exhaust pipe that will be mounted to the frame with heavy duty, road worthy straps.
I’ve had an ongoing concern about the back heaviness of the bike. I was hoping it would balance out better with a water tank and fuel towards the front....but I don’t think it would be sufficient and the idea of flipping backwards onto the boiler is a serious safety concern. I had to come up with a way to shift the center of gravity, without adding “ballast” weight, a silly wheelie bar or having to sit on the handlebars....
So.....I made it a chopper.
“Right. That post was too silly” is what the colonel would say. Ok....back on topic...
Well....I decided that the system is solid enough to start making stuff more road worthy. I have pulled the boiler assembly and remounted the burner with heavier gauge brackets. Working on a new 3 bottle propane manifold that will be mounted securely on the front of the frame. Drums will be insulated with cotton twine soaked in high temp paint...thanks to Ron for the idea...and covered with a shell of thin walled exhaust pipe that will be mounted to the frame with heavy duty, road worthy straps.
I’ve had an ongoing concern about the back heaviness of the bike. I was hoping it would balance out better with a water tank and fuel towards the front....but I don’t think it would be sufficient and the idea of flipping backwards onto the boiler is a serious safety concern. I had to come up with a way to shift the center of gravity, without adding “ballast” weight, a silly wheelie bar or having to sit on the handlebars....
So.....I made it a chopper.
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 09, 2018 08:27AM |
That is really funny I sent that to him, he'll get a kick out of it
Fatbob those front forks and use them for water storage!
Quote: "Working on a new 3 bottle propane manifold that will be mounted securely on the front of the frame. Drums will be insulated with cotton twine soaked in high temp paint...thanks to Ron for the idea...and covered with a shell of thin walled exhaust pipe that will be mounted to the frame with heavy duty, road worthy straps.
Nahh, you don't want to insulate those. Think of propane LPG as water making steam and outside ambient temperature as the fire. Water boils at 212 F and propane boils at -42 F. We've discussed this before, but heating the LPG cylinders is very dangerous.
If Anything, you want to put fins on the LP tanks to increase the heat transfer to air.
Quote: "Rev. Stanley "Steamer" Ellis reported "enough steam to start with the next day" with the Doble-boilered [/Stanley-engined] Keen Steamliner #1"
I'm not from Missouri, but I'd have to see this to believe it. I think you may have gotten some weak intel Just the draft moving through the boiler, will cool it down in a short period, and a monotube with very low volume, and very little mass, and air moving over the coil, isn't going to maintain above 212 degrees for 12 hours etc.. She heats up quick and she cools down quick, can't have it two different ways.
-Ron
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2018 08:34AM by IronChief.
I sent that to him, he'll get a kick out of it
Fatbob those front forks and use them for water storage!
Quote: "Working on a new 3 bottle propane manifold that will be mounted securely on the front of the frame. Drums will be insulated with cotton twine soaked in high temp paint...thanks to Ron for the idea...and covered with a shell of thin walled exhaust pipe that will be mounted to the frame with heavy duty, road worthy straps.
Nahh, you don't want to insulate those. Think of propane LPG as water making steam and outside ambient temperature as the fire. Water boils at 212 F and propane boils at -42 F. We've discussed this before, but heating the LPG cylinders is very dangerous.
If Anything, you want to put fins on the LP tanks to increase the heat transfer to air.
Quote: "Rev. Stanley "Steamer" Ellis reported "enough steam to start with the next day" with the Doble-boilered [/Stanley-engined] Keen Steamliner #1"
I'm not from Missouri, but I'd have to see this to believe it. I think you may have gotten some weak intel
Just the draft moving through the boiler, will cool it down in a short period, and a monotube with very low volume, and very little mass, and air moving over the coil, isn't going to maintain above 212 degrees for 12 hours etc.. She heats up quick and she cools down quick, can't have it two different ways.
-Ron
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2018 08:34AM by IronChief.
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 09, 2018 09:10AM |
Ron,
The drums I was referring to are the steam drums for the generator....not the propane bottles. Definitely wouldn’t want to insulate those. The new chopper forks are made out of the same 2” pipe stock that the generator drums use. I was originally going to use the forks to store fuel...but I think having liquid in there could create some handling issues, as the fuel or water sloshes around in there. The weight of the forks is sufficient on their own, and making it a chopper opened up more room in the front of the frame to install stuff.
I talked to Tony-Wan Kenobi...I mean Tony G...about the chopper idea for better weight distribution. He said that chopper bikes have an issue with increased turning radius. I did a test run...so to speak...on the bikes handling by riding it down my 45 deg incline driveway. It has the turning radius of a Mack truck....steam Jedi master was right. The thing is...I’m not going to be riding it in urban traffic any time soon, and it just looks too cool for me to change it
.
Ok...I will admit that the chopper idea wasn’t just about weight distribution and functionality. The angled lines of the mounted steam drums and protruding furnace already give it a “swept” look...I always thought that it looked awkward with such a stubby front end. I haven’t reinstalled the steam generator assembly yet....but it should appear to be more balanced and appealing to the eye. Call me vain...it’s ok. Function before form, as they say. I do understand that if it doesn’t work...it’s just a pretty piece of steampunk sculpture on wheels and who cares.
Keeping with the chopper tradition...it will have a “sissy bar” installed. Not because I’m a sissy...but for the practical reason of keeping me from falling back onto the hot furnace shell....ok.....plus it looks cool, too.
More updates / pictures / video to follow soon.
Jamison
The drums I was referring to are the steam drums for the generator....not the propane bottles. Definitely wouldn’t want to insulate those. The new chopper forks are made out of the same 2” pipe stock that the generator drums use. I was originally going to use the forks to store fuel...but I think having liquid in there could create some handling issues, as the fuel or water sloshes around in there. The weight of the forks is sufficient on their own, and making it a chopper opened up more room in the front of the frame to install stuff.
I talked to Tony-Wan Kenobi...I mean Tony G...about the chopper idea for better weight distribution. He said that chopper bikes have an issue with increased turning radius. I did a test run...so to speak...on the bikes handling by riding it down my 45 deg incline driveway. It has the turning radius of a Mack truck....steam Jedi master was right. The thing is...I’m not going to be riding it in urban traffic any time soon, and it just looks too cool for me to change it
.
Ok...I will admit that the chopper idea wasn’t just about weight distribution and functionality. The angled lines of the mounted steam drums and protruding furnace already give it a “swept” look...I always thought that it looked awkward with such a stubby front end. I haven’t reinstalled the steam generator assembly yet....but it should appear to be more balanced and appealing to the eye. Call me vain...it’s ok. Function before form, as they say. I do understand that if it doesn’t work...it’s just a pretty piece of steampunk sculpture on wheels and who cares.
Keeping with the chopper tradition...it will have a “sissy bar” installed. Not because I’m a sissy...but for the practical reason of keeping me from falling back onto the hot furnace shell....ok.....plus it looks cool, too.
More updates / pictures / video to follow soon.
Jamison
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 10, 2018 01:25AM |
Hi Ron,
I just checked Ellis's book, and couldn't find the story about the monotube boiler which stayed hot enough overnite to start up the next day. Either it was another source, maybe another owner of the Keen car, or the story might have been about a different car. I seem to recall that it involved a heavy Doble-style monotube, with hundreds of pounds of hot steel tubing in a well-insulated case, and that the pressure the next day was very low, but enough to start driving on, with the burner and pumps kicking in, and boosting it to full operating pressure, before it ran out of steam. I am hoping that my mental Mixmaster hasn't confused Doble stories with reports on Stanleys parked with the pilot burning overnight...
One humorous bit I did find in Ellis, page 79:
"When you bought a new Doble, assuming you ever could, the control box was strictly verboten. Never touch it. Never, never. If you do so your factory guarantee expired and Mr. Doble would never speak to you again. Leave it alone."
Peter
I just checked Ellis's book, and couldn't find the story about the monotube boiler which stayed hot enough overnite to start up the next day. Either it was another source, maybe another owner of the Keen car, or the story might have been about a different car. I seem to recall that it involved a heavy Doble-style monotube, with hundreds of pounds of hot steel tubing in a well-insulated case, and that the pressure the next day was very low, but enough to start driving on, with the burner and pumps kicking in, and boosting it to full operating pressure, before it ran out of steam. I am hoping that my mental Mixmaster hasn't confused Doble stories with reports on Stanleys parked with the pilot burning overnight...
One humorous bit I did find in Ellis, page 79:
"When you bought a new Doble, assuming you ever could, the control box was strictly verboten. Never touch it. Never, never. If you do so your factory guarantee expired and Mr. Doble would never speak to you again. Leave it alone."
Peter
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 10, 2018 02:14AM |
Hi Jamison,
Tony Wan Kenobi, LOL! Yeah, keep on like that and the Monty Python Colonel will appear any minute now. My expert technical engineering analysis of your chopper fork is that it looks totally badass. Hey, it's a fun vehicle, go for it. How about some ape hanger handlebars with tassels, and don't forget the '70s metal-flake-vinyl banana seat! When I moved into this house, among other weird things I found that the previous owners had left behind, was a rusty 1970s "chopper style" low-rider bicycle with the longest craziest front fork and ape-hanger handlebars I have ever seen. I hung it on the wall inside the garage, and every single person who has seen it has commented favorably on the wacky thing. This brings to mind how I spent a lot of years drawing conservative-looking steam cars, in an effort to "make a respectable modern steam car that looks like a regular car". The response: yawns. But when I started sketching T-bucket-based hot-rod body concepts a couple years ago, having in mind "not what I'd prefer but just build a cheap platform to road-test steam car powerplants", every darn comment was "wow, totally cool car!". Then I recalled a few car shows where I had seen people walk right past the latest and supposedly most-desirable $250,000-plus modern exotic sports and luxury cars, barely glancing at them, to cluster around and gawk at hot rods and 1920s/earlier antique cars parked nearby. And the rods & 'tiques are vastly cheaper and easier to design/build. Takes a while, but eventually "what people really like" even busts thru my thick skull, and I catch the fun bug too. The moral of the story, I suppose, is get jiggy with it and make fun vehicles. I think us tech/gear-head types need that.
Peter
Tony Wan Kenobi, LOL! Yeah, keep on like that and the Monty Python Colonel will appear any minute now.
My expert technical engineering analysis of your chopper fork is that it looks totally badass. Hey, it's a fun vehicle, go for it. How about some ape hanger handlebars with tassels, and don't forget the '70s metal-flake-vinyl banana seat! When I moved into this house, among other weird things I found that the previous owners had left behind, was a rusty 1970s "chopper style" low-rider bicycle with the longest craziest front fork and ape-hanger handlebars I have ever seen. I hung it on the wall inside the garage, and every single person who has seen it has commented favorably on the wacky thing. This brings to mind how I spent a lot of years drawing conservative-looking steam cars, in an effort to "make a respectable modern steam car that looks like a regular car". The response: yawns. But when I started sketching T-bucket-based hot-rod body concepts a couple years ago, having in mind "not what I'd prefer but just build a cheap platform to road-test steam car powerplants", every darn comment was "wow, totally cool car!". Then I recalled a few car shows where I had seen people walk right past the latest and supposedly most-desirable $250,000-plus modern exotic sports and luxury cars, barely glancing at them, to cluster around and gawk at hot rods and 1920s/earlier antique cars parked nearby. And the rods & 'tiques are vastly cheaper and easier to design/build. Takes a while, but eventually "what people really like" even busts thru my thick skull, and I catch the fun bug too. The moral of the story, I suppose, is get jiggy with it and make fun vehicles. I think us tech/gear-head types need that.
Peter
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 12, 2018 11:39PM |
Peter,
Ape hangers might be in order...but tassels are a bit too much, for my taste. I’m having to restrain myself from getting too caught up in aesthetics at this point, even though I’ve got some great ideas for dressin’ her up. I can hear steam Jedi master Tony’s voice echoing in my head “get ‘er working first....THEN do the extra stuff”.....
Mike,
Across the country and back in a 1925 automobile....remarkable. That must of been an amazing experience with lots of great memories. I like when vintage car owners aren’t afraid to take their vehicles on a road trip instead of keeping them locked up in a garage. They were designed and built to be driven and enjoyed.
Update on mini chopper...reinstalled the boiler with furnace insulation around the front of the shell. Painted one of the steam drums with high temp paint and then wrapped it with cotton twine, for insulation, while it was still wet. Then I painted over the twine until it was saturated. After drying overnight...I installed the flexible exhaust pipe shell over the drum and reinstalled the fittings. Then I welded a mounting channel on the side of the bike and fit the drum in place. The mounting straps will be installed across the channel to secure them. Will do the same with the other drum. I must admit it looks pretty good, too....even though the insulation on the furnace shell is not completely covered yet. I bought some galvanized sheet that will cover it in the back section. Here are some pictures of the progress:
Ape hangers might be in order...but tassels are a bit too much, for my taste. I’m having to restrain myself from getting too caught up in aesthetics at this point, even though I’ve got some great ideas for dressin’ her up. I can hear steam Jedi master Tony’s voice echoing in my head “get ‘er working first....THEN do the extra stuff”.....
Mike,
Across the country and back in a 1925 automobile....remarkable. That must of been an amazing experience with lots of great memories. I like when vintage car owners aren’t afraid to take their vehicles on a road trip instead of keeping them locked up in a garage. They were designed and built to be driven and enjoyed.
Update on mini chopper...reinstalled the boiler with furnace insulation around the front of the shell. Painted one of the steam drums with high temp paint and then wrapped it with cotton twine, for insulation, while it was still wet. Then I painted over the twine until it was saturated. After drying overnight...I installed the flexible exhaust pipe shell over the drum and reinstalled the fittings. Then I welded a mounting channel on the side of the bike and fit the drum in place. The mounting straps will be installed across the channel to secure them. Will do the same with the other drum. I must admit it looks pretty good, too....even though the insulation on the furnace shell is not completely covered yet. I bought some galvanized sheet that will cover it in the back section. Here are some pictures of the progress:
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 13, 2018 02:19AM |
Jamison!
Beg You, weld two curved tubes onto the frame beyond the rear wheel, or shift the wheel back 15". Your mustang wants to capsize!
Beg You, weld two curved tubes onto the frame beyond the rear wheel, or shift the wheel back 15". Your mustang wants to capsize!
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 13, 2018 10:54AM |
Serge,
Are you concerned that the acceleration will be sufficient to reduce the load borne by the front axle to zero?....otherwise known as “wheelie back flip”? The main reason (besides the cool factor) I made this thing a chopper was to shift the center of gravity forward....to prevent that from happening. Those front forks are about 2 feet long each, made of rather heavy 2” schedule 40 pipe. The rider sits just in front of the rear axle ...same spot as some full size choppers....so the wheels position should not be an issue. The heavy pipe forks balance the bike out fairly well, it should not wheelie...unless I want it too. I hope I am understanding correctly what you meant by “capsize”. I do like the idea of some kind of back bumper-like safety guard, so the boiler assembly is better protected overall. Maybe something like this:
Jamison
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/13/2018 11:02AM by Arch-Tone.
Are you concerned that the acceleration will be sufficient to reduce the load borne by the front axle to zero?....otherwise known as “wheelie back flip”? The main reason (besides the cool factor) I made this thing a chopper was to shift the center of gravity forward....to prevent that from happening. Those front forks are about 2 feet long each, made of rather heavy 2” schedule 40 pipe. The rider sits just in front of the rear axle ...same spot as some full size choppers....so the wheels position should not be an issue. The heavy pipe forks balance the bike out fairly well, it should not wheelie...unless I want it too
. I hope I am understanding correctly what you meant by “capsize”. I do like the idea of some kind of back bumper-like safety guard, so the boiler assembly is better protected overall. Maybe something like this:
Jamison
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/13/2018 11:02AM by Arch-Tone.
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 15, 2018 12:54PM |
The steam mini chopper is almost complete. Mounted the other drum, installed the outer furnace shell, plumbed everything together and made a 3 bottle propane manifold. Was going to install a chain, mount the propane manifold and do a test run today....but it is raining here so it will have to wait. Here are pictures of the almost completed bike and propane manifold:
Jamison
Jamison
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Re: Steam Powered Mini Bike April 15, 2018 04:47PM |
Jamison,
Looks good, has a real finished look to it. Like the three tank manifold, that gives new meaning for the term "tri-power" !
-Ron
Looks good, has a real finished look to it. Like the three tank manifold, that gives new meaning for the term "tri-power" !
-Ron
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